May 11, 1993 – Sheremetyevo Airport, again. But at least this time, it wasn’t a snowy February. It was springtime, and I had someone waiting for me at the baggage claim area: good old Vitold. He had thoughtfully brought a friend with him, one who owned a truck. Vitold was a little crazy, but he wasn’t stupid — he knew his Lada automobile would never be able to hold a woman’s six-months-worth of luggage and office supplies.

That ride — from the airport far to the north of central Moscow, to the Foundation’s apartment at the far opposite end of the city — has to go down in the record books as one of the most miserably uncomfortable rides in history. In my history, at least. This truck wasn’t a Ford pickup, or anything even close. It was a nameless rattletrap, a junkyard reject, a pitiful conglomeration of spare parts seemingly held together with Scotch tape and baling wire. Its creator had obviously never heard of shock absorbers — or, for that matter, padding in the seats. Welcome home, Brenda; your limousine awaits.

Add to that, the driver from hell and the notoriously rutted Russian roads (pardon the alliteration), and it’s no wonder I was ready to kiss the ground when we finally arrived at No. 16 Rublevskoye Shosse: a 16-story, blue and white Soviet monstrosity, ground-floor commercial space in the front, parking and entrance in the rear, springtime mud everywhere. And in the dismal little entryway, a small desk at which was seated the ubiquitous dezhurnaya: the lady concierge cum watchdog whose responsibility it was to report — to whomever her bosses were — on the comings and goings of all residents and visitors. Innately suspicious of the newly-arrived American on the sixth floor, she eventually decided that I wasn’t there to kill her or to steal anything, and by the time I left Moscow, she had almost come to accept me. I considered that one of the major accomplishments of my time in Russia.

The building was owned by the Ministry of Defense; but the apartment belonged to an army officer who had been sent, along with his family, on indefinite assignment to Tajikistan. I’m sure they were thrilled. But they were allowed to rent out their apartment, and were delighted to find American tenants willing to pay in dollars. They had hired one of their neighbor families on the same floor to look after the place and collect the rent, and we in turn hired the lady of that household, Tamara, to do a bit of cleaning and cooking. I do not know what I would have done without her. She was a great cook, and she knew where to shop for the best meats, produce and bread. In return, I would bring items for her from the hard currency stores that weren’t otherwise available to her. She also volunteered to do my laundry for me. I would have adopted her and brought her home with me when I left Moscow, but her husband and daughters objected rather strenuously for some reason.

Happily, the interior living spaces were far superior to the building’s exterior. My apartment was unusually large for Moscow, clearly indicating that it belonged to a somewhat privileged family. It had a spacious living-dining room, three big bedrooms, two well-appointed bathrooms, and a very nice eat-in kitchen that had been upgraded with German-made appliances and cabinetry. The furniture wasn’t beautiful, but it was comfortable and clean, and I immediately felt right at home. There was also a large enclosed balcony, which became a very handy storage room. Part of the main living area had been portioned out as office space, with a desk, file cabinet, computer, satellite phone, and a Xerox printer/copier (one of the 16 pieces I had brought with me).

My favorite feature of the place, though, was the apartment door. It was made of steel, roughly three inches thick, and had a three-fingered steel deadbolt, each finger, or rod, measuring a good inch or so in diameter and about six inches in length. Nobody was going to break through that sucker — not without a bomb, anyway.

And more people came with the office as well. Olga and Lena had been hired by Gil, and were soon my new best friends. They were delightful women, both fluent in English, who acted as interpreters and office assistants. Olga was outgoing, Lena more on the shy side, but we all got along beautifully, and I soon was referring to them as my Russian sisters. Many an evening I would invite them to stay after work for zakusky (hors d’oeuvres), vodka and a movie. With Vitold’s help — I nicknamed him “the Scrounger” — I discovered kiosks where I could buy the best caviar at the equivalent of about $3.00 for a two-ounce container, decadently rich ice cream to stock the freezer, and vodka that wasn’t rotgut. With all that good food and a VCR player, my popularity was pretty much assured, even though they did suspect I was a CIA agent because why else would an American learn to speak Russian? It had been less than two years since the breakup of the Soviet Union, and paranoia still ran deep.

The final two members of our little family were Vitaly and Maya. Vitaly was a quiet sort, and acted as a back-up driver and gofer. Maya was a strikingly beautiful young woman, married without children, and the spoiled daughter of an army general. She was also intelligent and an excellent interpreter, but was obviously more interested in her social life and eventually visiting America than in actually doing any work.

So this was my home, and these were my people, for the next several months. How on earth had this come to be? What twists of fate had led me from my prosaic childhood in New England to this strange and forbidding place? As I thought about it, the answer became obvious: it was all Walter Surrey’s fault. (Sure, blame the guy who’s not here to defend himself.) When I walked into the offices of Surrey, Karasik & Morse for the first time in April of 1979, I was taking the initial, unsuspecting step toward this moment. Every path, every byway, every road from that point on led me directly — do not pass “Go,” do not collect $200 — to my lifelong obsession with all things Russian . . . and now, to Russia itself.

As I write about these people who were such a big part of my life that summer, I have a hard time picturing them as they would be now, thirty years later, and I can’t help wondering how their lives have turned out. It broke my heart when, less than a year after leaving, the roads to Russia were suddenly closed off to me, and I had to lose touch with them — but that’s a whole other story for another chapter (or two).

*. *. *

There was little time to get acquainted that first day — I was off to Kiev just 24 hours later, compliments of Gil, who had arranged for me to meet with our Ukrainian partner. Olga had made my train reservations, I had brought a small bag already packed for a two-nighter, and Vitold drove me to the Kievskiy Vokzal — the Kiev Train Station — which, coincidentally, is located around the corner from my old standby, the Radisson Hotel.

I had a sleeping compartment on the train, and headed off — alone once more — into the unknown. The train left Moscow around 5:00 p.m., and arrived in Kiev in the morning. I had brought along food and bottled water, and had been warned to use the bathroom early in the voyage, as it was unisex and would be too disgusting to use later. They were right. It’s hard to aim on a moving train.

Somewhere in Ukraine, we made a fairly lengthy stop at a village where we were able to leave the train and mill around the station for a few minutes. There were vendors, of course, and I bought a couple of pieces of fruit and bottles of mineral water. I even had a chance to talk with a very sweet lady, who was tickled to learn that I was an American whose grandparents had emigrated from her region around the time of the first, failed Revolution of 1905.

Around 9:00 p.m., I left my compartment to stretch my legs in the corridor, and was looking out the window at the passing scenery (it was not quite dark), when we made a brief stop at a small station. As I glanced at the people on the platform, I suddenly noticed a familiar face: a woman who appeared to be the identical twin of my mother’s older sister — or, rather, as she had looked many years before. Unfortunately, there was no time to disembark, and I have always regretted that I was unable to talk with her. She may have been a distant relative; I will never know, but I like to think so.

We arrived without incident in Kiev in the morning, and as I stepped down onto the platform, a woman approached me and introduced herself as Irina Shakhova. Irina was a little younger than I, spoke fluent English, and looked enough like my mother’s side of the family to have been my cousin. It was obvious that we felt an immediate affinity for one another; we talked as though we’d known each other all our lives, and soon became fast friends. Later, when she and her husband Yuri moved to the Washington area with their two children and Irina’s mother, we remained close.

In addition to meetings at the Ukrainian Ministry of Health and the storage facility that housed our shipments of food, Irina did manage to give me a driving tour of the beautiful, historic city of Kiev, and a couple of exquisite restaurant experiences where the food was reminiscent of my grandmother’s cooking when I was a little girl. But the most amusing incident involved a small demonstration of coal miners from the Donbas region — an area so tragically in the news this past year — in front of a government building across the street from my hotel. I had some free time, and wandered over to see what I could learn, and to take a few pictures.

The crowd was peaceful; they had no choice, really, as the militia seemed to outnumber the demonstrators. As I was wandering about among the two hundred or so miners, a man — obviously spotting me as a foreigner — approached and began speaking to me in Russian. He asked where I was from, and when I said “Washington,” he became very excited and asked me to take a message back to my President. Okay, sure, glad to; I’m from Washington so obviously I know the President, right? And what was his message? Quite simply, that a dentist had implanted a radio transmitter in his mother’s teeth through which the government was spying on their family. [Cue Twilight Zone theme.] Never mind the other coal miners’ legitimate complaints about poor wages and working conditions; let’s first take care of Mama’s listening device. The poor man must have inhaled one too many liters of coal dust. I didn’t want to upset him, or invite trouble for him by enlisting the help of a Militsionaire, so I assured him I would do my best and hightailed it out of there, back to the safety and quiet of my hotel room.

But the most memorable — and saddest — event of that trip to Kiev was my visit with Irina to a treatment center for child victims of the Chernobyl nuclear disaster some seven years earlier. These were some of the children who were receiving our Veggieburger. If you can recall how the poor orphans were portrayed in the movie versions of Charles Dickens’ “A Christmas Carol,” you’ll have an idea of how these children looked: pale, emaciated, eyes dark-ringed and sunken, and faces sad beyond description. There was not a spoken word or a hint of a smile from any of them, as though they had never known a moment when they weren’t ill, and they realized the future wasn’t going to be any better. Their faces haunt me to this day. And these were just some of the less-afflicted children — the ones who were mobile and not visibly deformed. I was not given access to an inpatient hospital or an orphanage, undoubtedly for good reason. And of course, I was not allowed to touch the children, though I wanted desperately to give each one a huge hug. But the danger of radiation contamination was still too great.

Yet their condition, as greatly as it affected me, in no way surprised me. For those three days in Kiev, I had a sore throat that felt for all the world like tonsillitis, only it couldn’t be, because I’d had my tonsils removed decades earlier. But I had breathed the Chernobyl-polluted air and eaten locally-grown food, and that was enough. As soon as I left Kiev, I felt fine again; my sore throat disappeared, and to my knowledge I have suffered no lasting ill effects from that brief exposure to nuclear contamination. But those children had been breathing that foul air for all or most of their young lives. An entire generation had been sacrificed to the ravages of mankind’s insatiable lust for advancement.

Then it was back “home” to Moscow on another overnight train, and onward to a summer of fun and games in the ancient land of the Tsars, the Commissars, and the Oligarchs. Near the top of my to-do list: discreetly reestablishing contact with Valentin Aksilenko.

*. *. *

Today, I can’t remember what I had for dinner last night; but the details of those months in 1993 remain etched in my mind as though I had just lived them. Please join me again next time, when I revisit my first encounter with the Moscow Militia and the local KGB, on their turf, at a place known only by its address: Petrovka 38.

TTFN,
Brendochka
3/30/23 (re-posted 11/28/23)

February 21, 1993 – Eight time zones away in Moscow, Valentin Aksilenko answered the ringing telephone: “Allo?”

“Valentin, what in hell is going on over there?!!” I was clearly in no mood for preliminaries.

Valentin chuckled, not at all surprised to have heard from me. “Oh, you saw the Washington Post?”

So this Yuri Shvets quoted in the article was the friend he had told me about in Moscow. The entire scenario had obviously been carefully planned, by both of them, well in advance. And Shvets’ last interview had taken place while I was still in Moscow — perhaps at the very moment that I had been sitting and talking with Valentin in the Radisson’s business center. What kind of dangerous game were they playing? And how had I managed to be dragged into it? Was my being in Moscow at that exact time just the worst kind of serendipity?

In disbelief, I responded: “Is he crazy? Does he know what he’s doing?’

I was clearly upset, yet Valentin remained perfectly calm. He assured me that everything was fine, that there was no cause for concern, and that his friend had things well under control. Seriously?? This Shvets guy was advertising the fact that he was about to blow the whistle on the KGB, and everything was “under control”? How was that even possible? But I somehow managed to restrain myself, and not ask any further questions. I reminded myself that we were, after all, on an unsecured phone line between Moscow and the United States. Valentin’s calm demeanor, at first puzzling, was actually smart; he had been well trained. I should have realized that in the first place, but this was unfamiliar territory for me.

Valentin further confirmed that our business arrangement was still in place; they would draft an agreement to be signed by the three of us, granting me a percentage of any income from the “transaction”; and I should please go ahead with the search for a publisher. That was the least of my worries at the moment, but I took my cue and thanked him, told him I looked forward to receiving the agreement, and we said our goodbyes. Then I started pacing from room to room.

I never did get breakfast that day, and I’m not all that sure about lunch either. I kept rereading the newspaper article and trying to imagine a scenario in which Shvets’ book could be published without creating a firestorm in Moscow; but I wasn’t having any luck. First, however, I decided I had to protect myself on this end — not just financially, but legally. I needed to be sure that a commercial transaction of this type would not be in violation of any U.S. laws, regulations, or existing sanctions against Russia. As for the controversial content of the book, that would be the publisher’s problem, not mine. It was Sunday, so I couldn’t make any phone calls that day, but I knew whom I had to call on Monday: a friend in the Justice Department.

I woke early Monday morning and made the call. My friend asked a few questions, then assured me that there was no legal restriction against the type of business arrangement I had described, and no reason why a book by a Russian author couldn’t be published in the U.S. One of his questions concerned the identities of the two men.

The next day, the FBI came to call.

One or both of the names had apparently sent up a red flag in the Justice Department’s database, and my inquiry had immediately been referred to the Department’s investigative arm, the FBI. My first thought was that they were going to suggest that I back off and not get involved with anyone, former or current, from the KGB — which, of course, would have been sound advice. But that’s not what happened. In fact, they said they saw no problem, but asked that I keep them informed of my progress.

If you’ve never been in this type of situation, let me assure you that it’s really hard to say no to the FBI. They’re the good guys, right? — no threats, no strong-arm tactics, polite and friendly, bravely protecting our country’s interests. If you’ve done nothing wrong, not broken any laws, then you naturally want to help, to give something back to the country that has given you so much. It’s a no-brainer . . . or so it seemed. So I said fine, I’ll keep in touch.

Without going into the boring details, I was able, through a mutual acquaintance, to arouse the interest of a leading literary agent in New York, John Brockman. John was taken with the story of the would-be author Shvets and his colleague Aksilenko, but said that he could not consider representing an author he had never met or spoken to. He urged me to send an invitation to the two men to visit the U.S. for a brief period, during which he could assess the validity of their story and the likely value of Shvets’ manuscript.

Oh, okay, sure . . . no problem. Two (allegedly) retired, high-ranking KGB officers — Colonel Aksilenko and Major Shvets — would certainly be allowed to leave Russia for the United States, and thereafter be permitted by our State Department to enter the U.S., unquestioned and unrestrained at both ends. Just a little ten-day business jaunt — a piece of cake.

What it really was, was insane.

But I told myself I had to try. Regardless of who they were, or had been, I was representing them in a legitimate commercial transaction, and had a contractual obligation to them as my clients. I also, of course, had made a promise to the FBI, and I dutifully reported this development to them. I issued the requisite official letter of invitation to each of the men for a ten-day business-related visit in the spring, and sat back to wait for the State Department’s inevitable (I assumed) denial of their visa applications.

But what actually occurred was mind-boggling. With lightning speed, the visas were approved by State and issued by our embassy in Moscow; the two men managed to make airline reservations on the Russian airline, Aeroflot; and Aksilenko advised me that they would be arriving at JFK International Airport in New York on April 25, 1993, for a ten-day stay. Someone obviously wanted them here — but who? And why? And how had they managed their departure from Moscow so easily? These were just the first of scores of questions yet to be encountered . . . and never answered. Regardless of how or why, the Russians were coming.

*. *. *

I was to travel to New York to meet them on their arrival. John Brockman had invited all three of us to stay overnight at his country home in Connecticut, and was sending a car and driver to transport us there from JFK Airport. We would drive back into New York City the following morning for meetings with prospective publishers. It was VIP treatment, and all very efficiently arranged. But a funny thing happened on the way to the airport . . .

I had opted to travel to New York by Amtrak’s express train. On arrival at New York’s Penn Station, I took a taxi to JFK Airport, instructing the driver to drop me at the international arrivals terminal for incoming Aeroflot flights. Whether he didn’t understand me, or simply didn’t know his way around the airport, I don’t know; but I was delivered to the wrong terminal. And by the time I got inside and realized it, my taxi was gone and there were no others around. And no shuttle bus in sight. I had no idea of how to get where I was supposed to be; I’m a Washingtonian, not a New Yorker.

And just then the clouds parted, the hand of God descended and delivered to this lost lamb an angel from Heaven.

Or, more likely, the FBI had reached out and sent me an agent. A very respectable-looking man approached me, said I appeared to be lost, and asked if he could help. I explained my problem, and he said — miracle of miracles! — that he was also going to international arrivals and would be happy to give me a lift. His car just happened to be parked nearby.

Now, I’m not a stupid person, and under normal circumstances I do not get into vehicles with strangers. But this was not a normal circumstance, and he was not your average stranger. Plus, I was running late and becoming desperate. So with some trepidation and a silent prayer, I accepted the Good Samaritan’s offer. He knew exactly where to go, dropped me off in front of the correct terminal, said goodbye and good luck, and drove off. I never saw him again; apparently he had no business in international arrivals after all.

But there was no time to think about that. I ran into the terminal, looked around near baggage claims, and found Valentin Aksilenko standing next to a man, obviously our driver, who was holding a card with my name written on it. What a relief! But where was Yuri Shvets?

As I greeted Valentin and the driver, apologizing for my tardiness, a man came inching out of a nearby corner, where he had been partially hidden in the shadows. He was of average height, slight build, with luxuriant dark hair that was styled in what could only be described as a pompadour (you younger readers can look that up), and conspicuously well dressed and unwrinkled for a long-distance traveler. Was this the mysterious author, whistle-blower, and spy extraordinaire? Really?

After a quick introduction, we grabbed our respective suitcases and headed for the car to take us to Connecticut. I sat in the front seat with the driver, giving the two visitors a bit of privacy in the rear. In addition to jet lag, they must surely have been stressed beyond belief. We chatted a bit about their flight, the lovely countryside, and other nonsense, and then I left them alone to talk softly between themselves — in Russian, of course. I couldn’t catch a word of their conversation, nor did I try.

The Brockmans were the perfect hosts, and we all spent a delightful evening, with drinks on the enclosed porch, a stroll through the historic farm property, a lovely dinner, and endless conversation. The following morning, we rode into the city, met with three prospective publishers, and Shvets’ book was quickly bought for publication by Simon & Schuster. After a brief meeting back at the offices of Brockman, Inc., we enjoyed a celebratory lunch (again, compliments of John Brockman) in a restaurant with a beautiful view of Rockefeller Plaza, and three of us — the two exhausted Russians and I — hopped a train back to Washington, where I had left my car parked in the Union Station garage. I drove across the Potomac River via the 14th Street Bridge, checked them into their previously-reserved rooms in a suburban Virginia hotel, and took myself home to collapse. They weren’t the only ones feeling the stress.

It later became public knowledge that, during their stay in Washington, they met with the FBI. How many times they met, or for how long, or what was discussed, I do not know — and I’m sure it’s better that I don’t.

*. *. *

I have to backtrack a bit here. Following my February trip to Moscow with Kate Williams, I had received an offer from Gil Robinson to join his Foundation as their Moscow office manager for an estimated three to six months. Needless to say, I jumped at the opportunity. I spent a couple of weeks part-time in the Foundation’s Washington office, and was scheduled to leave for Moscow on May 10th. Valentin’s and Yuri’s visas were due to expire on May 5th. I was cutting it close, with only five days between their departure and my own in which to get ready for the move. And all the while I was spending time with them, with the FBI (whose presence had increased dramatically since the arrival of the two visitors), with my family and friends, on the phone with Brockman, suspending home deliveries and services, cleaning out my refrigerator, and packing half my wardrobe and an entire pharmacy. Today, just thinking about it is exhausting.

So when they took off as scheduled on May 5th, I was relieved, to say the least. And on May 10th, I left on an Air France flight from Dulles International Airport with 16 pieces of baggage — seven or eight of my own, the remainder being office supplies and equipment belonging to the Foundation. The overweight charges were enormous, but luckily a very sympathetic Air France supervisor, on hearing that we were doing humanitarian aid work for children, cut the costs in half. Also fortunately, I had the Foundation’s American Express corporate card to cover the still hefty charges.

And off I went, leaving everyone and everything behind, heading into . . . what? I had no idea, but I was sure it wouldn’t be dull. And I was so right.

Join me next time, as I arrive in Moscow to get settled, meet my new “family,” visit Kyiv at last, and become much too well acquainted with the Russian authorities.

So long for now,
Brendochka
3/23/23 (re-posted 11/27/23)

“‘Glasnost’ is on everyone’s lips, but the rules haven’t changed for either side.” — The Russia House, John le Carre (1989).

*. *. *

The remainder of 1992, following my return from Moscow, passed in a blur of activity: refining and promoting my business plan; consulting with my new associates in Moscow; meeting with people at the Russian Embassy and the local college; and — having quit my full-time job to devote myself to my real passion — even doing a little temp work to bring in some extra income. And then, toward the end of the year, another bolt out of the blue struck with perfect timing.

I received a heads-up phone call one day from Ben Fishburne, a former partner at Surrey & Morse / Jones Day who had worked closely with Walter Surrey for years on transactions in China, the Soviet Union, and elsewhere. He had recently bumped into an old client and friend of Walter’s, Gil Robinson, who told Ben that he was heading up a humanitarian aid foundation in Russia. While he already had a top-notch staff in Washington, Gil was searching for someone to accompany their D.C. manager, Kate Williams, to Moscow for a week — preferably someone who spoke the language and knew something about the country. Eureka! Ben asked if Gil remembered me — which he did — and gave him my number, saying that he thought I might be interested. Talk about understatement.

When Gil called, I tried not to get too excited, remembering the APCO disappointment. But this time was the real thing, if only for a week. There were meetings scheduled, but I would still have adequate time to pursue my own interests. We were booked into my old stomping grounds, the Slavyanskaya Radisson Hotel; it was February, 1993.

February in Moscow, again. I know I said I loved the whole Doctor Zhivago thing, but two years in a row? Still, you don’t pass up a golden opportunity just because of a little snow.

Corporations To End World Hunger Foundation seemed a lofty name for a small group with a noble purpose but limited reach. But they were doing good work. With funding from the U.S. Department of Agriculture, and food product from ADM Corporation, they were supplying healthy, high-protein food — the first Veggieburger — to children in orphanages and hospitals in Moscow, St. Petersburg, Kiev (Ukraine), and Minsk (Belarus). I was thrilled to be associated with them, helping children in need and — optimistically — building bridges between our two countries.

Gil Robinson had at one time been an Ambassador-at-Large in the U.S. State Department, and had an impressive biography overall, giving him access to people and places that might not be available to everyone. He had somehow managed — without anyone on his team who spoke a word of Russian — to start the registration process in Moscow; locate and rent a large apartment in a building owned by the Ministry of Defense and occupied by high-ranking military officers; develop contacts in all four cities; and hire a driver and jack-of-all-trades named Vitold, who was a maniac on wheels but knew where and how to acquire virtually anything.

One afternoon when Kate and I both had some free time, Vitold took us on a little sightseeing tour, ending at the famous Novodevichy Monastery. Most of the buildings were not open to the public, but we were able to wander the snow-packed lanes through the cemetery where the creme-de-la-creme of Russian and Soviet society were spending eternity: famed writers such as Chekhov, Gogol and Bulgakov; the composer Prokofiev; and the unforgettable former Soviet leader Nikita Khrushchev, among numerous other cultural, political and military elites. After an hour or so, when we were just about frozen to the bone, we suddenly heard . . . the distant voices of angels.

Seriously?

No . . . and we were not hallucinating. What we were hearing was the liturgical music of a choir practicing in one of the Monastery’s churches . . . and the doors were open. We headed for the warm indoors, excited at the opportunity to thaw out and to see what the inside of a Russian Orthodox church looked like. The first surprise was the emptiness — no pews, no benches, no seats of any kind; just a large expanse of concrete flooring. Along the left and right sides were tall windows, below which were statues of various saints, and tables with long, thin candles to be lit for the saint of one’s choice. And at the front was a large altar, behind which loomed an incredibly beautiful, nearly ceiling-high iconostasis separating the main part of the church from the sanctuary. The angelic voices were drifting out from behind that screen.

There were a few worshipers — mostly old women, who, despite the obvious pain involved, would periodically kneel and touch their heads to the hard floor. And strategically posted on either side of the room were two men in suits and overcoats, one on each side, just standing and watching. Kate wondered who they might be — perhaps security? Vitold didn’t respond, but I did: I was sure they were KGB. She thought at first that I was joking, but when she saw that I wasn’t, and Vitold nodded in agreement, she looked understandably nervous. So I whispered, “It’s okay; just ignore them” — which was pure bravado, of course. But the last thing we needed was for them to think we had anything to be nervous about. It may no longer have been called the Soviet Union, but some things hadn’t changed, despite glasnost.

To our delight, we had arrived at the church at the perfect time. Without any fanfare, a priest — in long, white-and-gold robes and headdress, snowy white beard flowing from his chin halfway down his chest — emerged from the sanctuary and began a service for the small gathering. Of course, Kate and I couldn’t understand a syllable of the old Church Slavonic language, but with the choir of angels in the background, it sounded divine. The three of us were standing in front near the altar, soaking in the atmosphere, when suddenly the priest’s eyes caught mine . . . and held. And held. And held. His eyes were mesmerizing, and I could not bring myself to look away. I felt as though he was looking deep into my soul, and I wondered whether I was being blessed or cursed, or whether perhaps he was trying silently to warn me about the KGB’s presence; but it was unlike anything I had ever experienced. If I close my eyes today, I can still see that priest’s eyes and feel the power of his gaze.

Finally, after what felt like an eternity, he looked away and the service ended shortly thereafter. It was time for us to leave — and to walk past those KGB watchers still hanging out in the warmth of the church. I wondered if either of them had noticed my visual exchange with the priest, and I half expected them to stop us, if only to find out who we were and where we were from; but they didn’t. We did stop briefly to light candles to a couple of saints whose identities were a complete mystery to us, left a few rubles in the plate, and hurried out of the church and the Monastery grounds to Vitold’s heap of a car waiting nearby on the street — miraculously, with all of its parts intact. Spare auto parts were notoriously difficult to come by, and had a habit of walking away if left unguarded.

*. *. *

There was also time during that week to fulfill another of my long-time dreams: a night at the Bolshoi. Kate and I were able to get tickets, at premium prices, to a performance of the Aleksandr Borodin opera Prince Igor. While I was a little disappointed that there was no ballet performance scheduled that week — I much prefer ballet to opera — it was still the Bolshoi Theatre, and that was joy enough for me. Vitold drove us there, and on the way was stopped by the traffic police, the GAI, for some unknown violation. He was going to try to argue his way out of it when I told him to take the damned ticket and I would pay the fine — just get us to the theatre in time. The way that man drove, I’d have bet he was on a first-name basis with every traffic cop in Moscow.

But of course, we were late. We had orchestra seats, but since the opera had already started, we were not allowed to disturb the performance, and instead were directed naverkh — “upstairs.” At each level, puffing and panting, we were sent up another flight, and another, and another, until we wound up in nosebleed territory — the cheap seats, where most of the patrons were locals who couldn’t afford more and considered themselves lucky to be there at all. And as we sat down, trying to get our breath after scaling Mount Bolshoi, I noticed that most of the people there were families with children, all of them obviously enthralled by the performance on the stage far below them. I had to wonder how many American children would even allow themselves to be dragged to an opera, much less enjoy it. In some respects, culturally at least, Russian society seemed far ahead of ours.

During intermission, we sipped champagne and mingled with the crowd, enjoying a bit of people-watching. We were then able to go to our assigned seats in the orchestra section for the remainder of the opera, but quite frankly, I missed watching the faces of the little kids upstairs under the eaves.

*. *. *

You know how sometimes you can go to a party expecting it to be a total drag, and end up having a wonderful time? Or on a blind date you’re really dreading, where it turns out you meet the love of your life? Well, my next event wasn’t a party or a date, but a simple get-together with an old acquaintance for a bit of pleasant conversation. I certainly never anticipated that that afternoon meeting would be one of the most significant turning points of my life.

“Viktor Akimov” — the commercial/economic First Secretary from the Soviet Embassy in Washington in the late 1970s and early ‘80s — was in fact Valentin Pavlovich Aksilenko. Everything else I’ve told you about him was factual, but I had originally thought to protect the privacy of some individuals by not naming them in my earlier narratives. However, since the stories I’m about to relate are already matters of public record, what would be the point? So, here we go . . .

On one of my free afternoons during that week of February 14, 1993, I again met with Valentin Aksilenko in the business center of the Slavyanskaya Radisson Hotel in Moscow. As we had done the previous February, we caught up on world events of the past year, and what each of us had been doing. This time, though, Valentin dropped a seemingly offhand comment to the effect that he was so glad to be “out of intelligence work.”

EXCUSE ME??? I could not have heard that correctly! Were those really the words of a man who obviously had never admitted being in the intelligence field, now telling me how happy he was to be out of it? And why was he revealing it at this particular moment? And why to me?

It’s thought that if you want another person to keep talking, you should just keep quiet. So I did. But instead of continuing, he became still. Leaning forward in his chair, with his forearms resting on his legs, hands clasped between his knees, he stared at the carpeted floor for a seemingly endless moment, deep in thought. I waited, scarcely breathing. At last he sighed as though having made a crucial decision, sat up straight, and looked back at me. To paraphrase his next words:

“I have a friend here in Moscow who was also an intelligence officer at the Embassy in Washington. He’s secretly writing a book about his experiences as a KGB spy in the United States, but obviously he can’t get it published here. We were wondering if you know anyone in the publishing business, and if you think you could help us?”

And there it was: that exact moment in the movie of John le Carre’s The Russia House, when the Russian Katya Orlova delivers a manuscript from her scientist friend to be placed in the hands of the British publisher, Barley Blair, for publication in England because its content is too explosive to be released in Russia.

Only this wasn’t a movie; this was real. And it was happening to me, right then, and right there, in Moscow. Oh! My! God!

It never ceases to amaze me how quickly the human brain can process information and make decisions in sink-or-swim situations. I reasoned that I had a choice between a flat-out “Sorry, no, I don’t” and a totally false “Actually, yes, I do.” But my brain, now in overdrive, told me there was a third option: stall. So what I finally said was that, in all honesty, I did not personally know anyone, but that I did know people in New York who might well have connections in publishing. And thereby I unknowingly altered the course of my future, as well as Valentin’s and his friend’s.

. . . that is, if there even was such a friend. He hadn’t mentioned the friend’s name. Wasn’t it just possible that Valentin himself might be this anonymous author, and the unidentified “friend” was merely a kind of misdirection? But there was no time for reasoning just then. I told him I would see what I could do, and left the thinking for later. We parted with a handshake and a promise to be in touch.

When Kate asked me at dinner how my meeting with my friend had gone, I said it had been really nice to see him again, and let it go at that. This was not the sort of information you share with the world. But I hardly slept that night, or for the next couple of nights. We left Moscow on Saturday morning, February 20th, arriving at Dulles International Airport in mid-afternoon Washington time — nighttime in Moscow. I was so exhausted by then — both mentally and physically — that I was in bed by 9:00 p.m. and actually did sleep, not waking until noon on Sunday, February 21st.

Yawning and stretching, I opened my apartment door, bent down to pick up the Sunday edition of the Washington Post, dropped it face-up on the kitchen counter, and headed toward the refrigerator for my customary wake-up glass of orange juice. And halfway there, I stopped dead in my tracks.

Something had caught my eye as that newspaper landed on the countertop. What was it . . . something about the KGB? Turning back, I focused on an article by Michael Dobbs, then the Post’s Moscow Bureau Chief, about a series of interviews given in Moscow — the last one just a few days earlier — by a former KGB Major named Yuri Shvets, who had served in the Soviet Embassy in Washington from 1985-87, and was now writing a tell-all book about his experiences there.

The words that came flying from my mouth as I stood alone in my kitchen that day are not fit for printing in this blog. Or anywhere else.

“That #&$*#$ has to be Valentin’s friend.”

“What the #$&%*$ is he doing??”

“Is he #$&#*$-ing INSANE????????”

Well, whoever he was — Valentin’s friend or, unlikely, some other lunatic — I was sure he had just signed his own death warrant. I reread the article and tried to calm down. Then I reached for the phone and dialed Valentin’s number in Moscow, where it was nearly 9:00 p.m. There had to be a logical explanation for this.

*. *. *

Please don’t yell at me for stopping here. It’s an ongoing story, with many twists and turns and some fun stuff in between, that will require about a dozen installments to write. So, like a 1940s radio soap opera (but all true), I must ask you to tune in next time for the continuing saga, etc., etc.

Thanks, and TTFN,
Brendochka
3/16/23 (re-posted 11/26/23)

I learned a lot of things in Prague. I learned that Adolph Hitler had considered it too beautiful to destroy, so only two German bombs hit the city during WWII: one landing on the City Hall, and the other on my friend Beata’s grandparents’ home (luckily, no one was in the house at the time). I learned that Russian and Czech are two distinctly different languages, and that Doberman Pinschers can be friendly. I learned that Mozart really rocks, and that cobblestones are murder on your feet. And I learned that I loved living abroad.

But most significantly, I learned that in 1991 there was a huge need in the recently de-Soviet-ized countries of Eastern and Central Europe for some sort of training programs for the thousands of individuals who would be lining up to work for all of the new Western companies springing up everywhere.

And I had an epiphany. If the need was so great in those countries, how much more desperate must it be in Russia, which had never known democracy or free enterprise. There were programs in the United States and elsewhere being created to train the new generation of Russian entrepreneurs, but what about the people who would be working for them? And who better to develop such a program than someone with years of exactly that type of work experience? Someone like me, for instance.

Again, the timing was serendipitous. My son and daughter were grown and on their own, and my mother had passed away shortly after my return from Prague, leaving me with an unexpected case of empty-nest syndrome. I had no one dependent on me any longer, and being back in a routine job just wasn’t cutting it. It was time for this little bird to fly. So I started spending my evenings and weekends writing — not fiction, not a travelogue, but a business plan. And when it was finished, I took it directly to the Russian Embassy. Now, if that’s not chutzpah, I don’t know what is.

And it paid off. My new contact at the Embassy, Natalya, loved it. A very bright and well-connected lady, she immediately set about referring me to people in Moscow who could partner with me in establishing my business school on their side of the Atlantic. As luck would have it, Natalya also was acquainted with — and introduced me to — the person at Northern Virginia Community College (NOVA) best suited to create the curriculum that would be needed there. My plan was to bring teachers to the U.S. for training in Western business methods and office procedures at one of NOVA’s campuses. They would then return to Moscow to pass on their knowledge to the students at a business school to be established there. Those students then would be qualified to become office assistants, bookkeepers, shop managers, and the like. It was direct, uncomplicated, and workable.

Everyone loved it. But, like any project, it had to be financed. Ugh! So I began promoting my business plan, including a proposed budget, to several American foundations, venture capital companies, and even a couple of government agencies. And while I waited for my financial “angel” to show up, I began planning my first solo trip to Moscow for meetings with Natalya’s contacts in February of 1992.

“February??? You’re going to Russia in February??????”

That was what I heard from everyone. And my reply was always, “Sure — why not?” Actually, I’d always wanted to see the Russian winter of Doctor Zhivago, and here was my chance. I took a week’s vacation from the law firm, packed some winter clothes, grabbed my warmest down coat and fur-lined boots, and made a reservation at the Slavyanskaya Radisson Hotel in central Moscow. And off I went.

On the long overnight flight, somewhere between dinner and a three-hour nap, I studied my notes and finalized my schedule. This time, when the plane landed at Sheremetyevo Airport, there was no Intourist guide or bus waiting for me as there had been on my first trip as a tourist three and a half years earlier. I had to fetch my own bags and find a taxi to take me into the city. And I had no American law firm backing me up, as I had in Prague. For the first time, it hit me that I was entirely on my own, in what was arguably one of the scariest cities on earth. What in hell had I been thinking?!!

Once I got to the hotel, though, my confidence began to return. It was a Radisson, after all, with all of the usual comforts and amenities, and staff who spoke English. In 1992, Moscow was crawling with Americans and other foreigners looking for business opportunities that just a couple of years earlier hadn’t existed there. The bar was full of them, the dining room was full of them, and the business center on the mezzanine was buzzing with them, in a cacophony of half a dozen different languages.

Now, about those Russian winters. They were right, all those people who said it was insanity to go there in February. But I found it perversely invigorating. It snowed a bit every night, and nearly every day. The snow was swept from the sidewalks by little old ladies with brooms; on the streets, it was simply driven over and packed down by the heavy traffic — no need for snow plows. The temperature barely inched above zero during the day, and dipped to around 20-below at night.

To compensate, Russians tend to overheat their buildings — including the Western hotels like the Radisson. But I can’t sleep in an oven, so I was pleased to find that the window in my room could be opened, and I lifted it just an inch or so before turning in that first night. The next morning, I went down to the coffee shop for breakfast and came back to my room to fetch my things for my first meeting, where I found a hotel maid — a very pretty young woman — fussing over the snow on the windowsill. She kept apologizing for what she assumed was an oversight by a hotel employee, and I had to calm her down before she could comprehend that I had opened the window myself. We chatted, and I gave her the little gifts I had brought for her — just some small American cosmetic and toiletry items, but unavailable in Russia in those days. Every day after that, I would leave her a little something, and — as I had hoped — nothing was ever missing from my room. And on my last day in the hotel, she actually brought a gift for me: a lovely picture book of Moscow. All because of a little snow.

*. *. *

The meetings Natalya had arranged for me were going well, and I was running non-stop from one to another. At the same time, I was learning about a Moscow I hadn’t known before: the small-town Moscow, where everybody knew everybody, and where — out of nine million people — you were still likely to bump into someone you knew.

One morning, as I sat at a table in the hotel coffee shop, grabbing another quick breakfast before my first meeting of the day, I looked up and spotted a familiar face — and an American one, at that. I called out his name and he turned, completely surprised to see me in such unexpected surroundings. Randy Bregman was an attorney from Washington whom I had known for years, and with whom I shared a number of mutual friends and acquaintances. He sat down, ordered a cup of coffee, and we talked for a while.

He was associated at the time with the large, well-known law firm of Arnold & Porter. He told me that they had created a public relations firm called APCO that had established a business presence in Russia, and they were looking for the right person who could move to Moscow and manage their office. Knowing my background, he asked if I might be interested, and I answered almost before he finished the question. Of course I was interested! Are you kidding? This was my dream come true: another overseas opportunity, and one that would put me onsite where my new business school would be operating. I could multi-task.

“Just one thing, though,” Randy cautioned. They had a Russian partner, a man he called simply Vlad, who could be — in his words — rather bossy and difficult to get along with. Shrugging it off, I reminded him of my ten years with Walter Surrey, the attorney I had been working with when Randy and I first met, and assured him that if I could handle Walter, I could handle anyone. He laughed, and agreed. He gave me the name of the partner (Sarah something, as I recall) in Arnold & Porter’s Washington office who was in charge of finding a manager for the Moscow APCO office. He said he would let her know to expect a call from me when I got back to the States the following week. I couldn’t believe my luck — and as it turned out, there was good cause for my disbelief. More on that coming up later.

*. *. *

Among the people with whom I met that week was a group of educators from a district known as Lyubertsy on the outskirts of Moscow. (It also happened to be the location of one of the most notorious, violent “Mafia” gangs in the entire Moscow area, but that was beside the point.) They invited me to visit their district and to join them, their Mayor, and some of their teachers for lunch one day, transportation to be provided. It was a fairly long drive, and afforded me the extra perk of seeing some of the rural area outside of the city that I might not otherwise have seen.

Their building was located on a former government-run collective farm, which had now been privatized. The food they served was all locally produced, including the pig who had given its life so that we might have shashlik (shishkebab) for lunch — prepared right there, on the farm, outdoors, in a clearing surrounded by three feet of piled-up snow. And that was where the table had also been set with a typically Russian over-abundance of food: Outdoors. In ten-degree weather. At a picnic table. In the snow. Get my drift? This was “frigid,” redefined.

There was a little warmth radiating from the barbecue grill if you stood right in front of it, but the only real heat source was from the bottles of vodka they had stashed in the snow beneath the table. Hospitable, hardy folks, these Russians. Of course, every bite of food had to be preceded by a toast: to U.S.-Russian friendship, to President Yeltsin, to success in business, to world peace, to President Bush, to you, to me, to someone’s evil mother-in-law . . . to all of us. And we’re talking about bottoms-up shots of ice-cold vodka, not dainty sips of wine. I was doing fine, relying on my Russian/Ukrainian heritage to sustain me, until it was time to go indoors for our meeting. (Please don’t ask why we had to eat outdoors when there was a perfectly lovely building just 20 or 30 yards away; apparently, it’s a thing over there. Or perhaps they were just testing my mettle. In any event, it would have been rude to question it.)

Did you know that it’s possible to consume a whole lot of alcohol in icy-cold surroundings without feeling any effect? Or that it will hit you like a brick wall as soon as you come indoors to the warmth? Well, I didn’t know — but I found out quickly enough. The funny thing was, as off-kilter as I suddenly found myself, I was also speaking the most fluent Russian of my life, and understanding everything the others said, without relying on the interpreter. At least, I think that’s what happened. Later, when I sobered up, I just had to pray that I hadn’t nullified any existing treaties between our governments. Without my sloppily-scribbled notes, I would have had no clue as to what transpired at that meeting, but I did recall that we parted as great friends. I suppose there is a moral to this story somewhere, but I’m damned if I know what it is.

*. *. *

I also found time that week to have dinner at the home of a couple I knew: a Russian lawyer and his wife who had been in Washington the year before, and who were also friends of Randy Bregman. See what I mean about everybody knowing everybody? And there was a whirlwind tour of the city with a delightful group of young Russian folk dancers who had been given my name as someone who might be able to arrange a U.S. tour for them (which, unfortunately, I couldn’t — not my bailiwick).

During that walkabout with the dancers, though, I learned a bit more about the nature of the typical Russian babushka (grandmother). I was wearing my nice warm, puffy down coat, scarf, gloves, and boots, but typically my head was uncovered — I hate wearing hats and hoods. I get hat hair, okay? So, as we were standing in a scenic spot while I took a few pictures, this elderly woman came rushing up to me, scolding me in Russian: “Cover your head, you’re going to catch pneumonia,” she kept repeating as she actually reached out and tried to pull the scarf that was around my neck up higher onto my head. As I tried to wave her hands away without actually slapping them, I told her that I was fine, that I was from the north and accustomed to the cold, etc. — until she finally gave up, uttered one last “tsk,” and walked away, muttering under her breath. Not shy, those wonderful little old Russian ladies. I used to have a beloved grandmother like that.

*. *. *

What turned out to be the most significant meeting of that week, however, seemed at the time to be the least meaningful. If you’ve been following my journey from the beginning, you may remember “my first Commie,” Viktor Akimov, and my having missed seeing him on my first trip to Moscow as a tourist in 1988. Before leaving for this visit in 1992, I sent him a fax (the world had advanced from telexes), and this time I received a reply happily agreeing to get together. And so we did, in the business center of the Radisson, where we drank tea and had a fine time catching up on the ten years since he had left Washington. I told him about my business school proposal; but he said very little about what he was currently doing. He seemed tired, and somewhat at a loss in the new open environment in Russia. We agreed to keep in touch, and that was that. I could never have imagined what lay just a year in the future . . . and a year after that.

It had been a hectic week, and I left Moscow worn out but optimistic. Except for the money thing. The Russians didn’t have any, and I was going to have to raise it all at home. And of course I still had to follow up on the APCO opportunity. So when I got home, I called Sarah and scheduled a meeting.

*. *. *

Hydrogen peroxide and vinegar . . . chlorine bleach and ammonia . . . alcohol and barbiturates . . . Brenda and Sarah. What do they have in common? They’re all toxic combinations.

Now, we’ve all met people to whom we’ve formed either an instant attraction or an instant dislike. But this woman had such an incredibly off-putting attitude, and an air of all-knowing superiority, that she was in a class of her own. She began by describing her plans for the Moscow office and her requirements for the person to fill the opening. She needed someone who could serve two roles: office manager, and IT specialist. Two completely different, incompatible jobs, requiring two different and incompatible skill sets and personality types. Two roles that, in every other organization, are filled by at least two people; but she was convinced that one should be able to do the job. Then she capped it off by naming a salary that was not just laughable — it was downright insulting. Even for Washington, it would have been ridiculously low; for Moscow, a notorious hardship posting, it was ludicrous. She clearly knew nothing about the realities of Russia.

I left that meeting feeling very let down. It wasn’t the end of the world, of course, but it was the end of what I had considered potentially a great opportunity. I was sorely disappointed — until about eight years later, when I was reading a newly-published book about Boris Berezovsky, one of the first, and wealthiest, of the new Russian oligarchs. In the book was a mention of another oligarch, Vladimir Gusinsky, who had been involved in many successful business enterprises, including — are you ready? — APCO. Omigod! This clearly was Vlad: Randy Bregman’s “bossy-and-difficult-to-get-along-with” Vlad. And the same Vlad who had since fallen out of favor with the government, been arrested on charges of corruption, and who — even today, in 2023 — is living in exile somewhere in the world, still on Vladimir Putin’s hit list. Go ahead and check him out on Google; it’s a fascinating story, and one in which I might easily have become an innocent bystander — or even deemed guilty by association. I had dodged that bullet, perhaps literally. I guess I owe Sarah my thanks after all, for what was arguably the worst job interview ever. So . . . belatedly and somewhat grudgingly . . . I do thank you, Sarah.

*. * . *

Have I mentioned that I’m writing a book? No? Well, I am. In fact, it’s the impetus for my having started this blog in the first place. But I’ve gone on long enough today, so please come back next time for the beginning of that story, the reveal of the true identity of “Viktor Akimov,” and a segue into the most memorable two years of my life. In the words of the immortal Al Jolson, “You ain’t heard nothin’ yet.”

So long for now,
Brendochka
3/9/23 (re-posted 11/25/23)

Now, where did we leave off last time? Right — Valerie had been rescued from the elevator and made good her escape from Prague. It was her loss; she missed out on a lot of good times.

On the way to work one day, I noticed printed signs posted on utility poles and trees all along the main streets, but couldn’t make out what they said. When I asked someone at work, I was told they were an announcement of the regular five-year cleaning of the pipes. All water was to be shut down throughout the city — except in the central, Old Town district — for the upcoming weekend. That explained the rusty water in my shower.

But what does one do without water for an entire weekend? Well, if you’re an American on an expense account, you either leave town or check into a hotel where there is water. But being tourist season, all the major hotels were already full, and I could only find space in a lovely little boutique hotel, the Ungelt, just off the Old Town Square. It was perfectly located, and for $200 I had — not just a room — but a beautiful two-bedroom, two-bath suite with a huge living room and a full kitchen. Good thing, too, since it turned out I was going to have to share it with a partner coming in from the Cleveland office.

The partner’s secretary called one day just before the water shutdown to ask whether we could help out with a hotel issue. Her boss would be arriving in Prague a day earlier than originally planned, but when she had tried to add a day at the start of his hotel reservation, she had been told that all rooms in the city were booked, due both to the usual tourist crush and the upcoming water issue. I explained the situation to her, which she of course found incredible, being from Cleveland where tourist invasions were not really a problem and the water system wasn’t 500 years old. But I had a brilliant idea. I said I had just reserved a two-bedroom suite for myself, and I would be happy to have company for the one night. Her reaction was hilarious! She simply could not believe that I — a woman — would agree to share living space with a man — and a married man at that — whom I had never even met. Ah, these moral midwesterners! She just didn’t understand, first, that in most of the western world this would not be considered shocking; second, that he was a partner in the firm and if he tried anything objectionable, I would know exactly where to find his wife; and third, that this was Prague, where practically nothing was considered unusual. So she checked with her boss, and he said “yes please” — which must have sent her into spasms.

As it turned out, though, the water was restored before he arrived and I was able to move back into my apartment after only one night in the hotel. He was already on a plane by that time, so I left a note and the key for him at the hotel desk, and said I’d see him at the office on Monday. When we did finally meet, he said he and his wife had had a good laugh over the situation, and yes, his secretary was a bit on the puritanical side. No kidding!

Anyway, while I was staying at the hotel, I was able to do some wandering around the Old Town, where I encountered a family of three from Germany: a young couple and a middle-aged woman, who were driving around Europe on the cheap. The young man spoke English, and told me they had lost their bearings in the city’s twisted streets. He asked if I could direct them back to the student hostel where they had stayed the night before. He showed me a piece of paper with the supposed address on it, but what they had written down was the word “Ulitsa,” which they had copied from a street sign, and which I had to explain means “Street” — not the name of the street as they had thought. They didn’t realize that the street names were shown in reverse, as for example, “Street Main.” Dismayed, they asked where else they might stay, and I told them about the water situation and the packed hotels, and that I had even had to move out of my apartment to an expensive hotel for two days. The young man suddenly became very excited. Could they stay in my apartment, since I wasn’t using it?

Now, I’ve heard of chutzpah, but this was beyond belief. Did I have “STUPID” written across my forehead? Was I really going to let three total strangers — and wayfaring tourists at that — move into my apartment, where all my belongings were, and where they couldn’t bathe or flush the toilet for two days??? Really? So I quickly made up a story about a landlord who wouldn’t allow tenants to sublet, wished them well, and got away from them as quickly as I could. They had a car, and I assume they slept in it that night. If they could even remember on which ulitsa they’d parked it!

*. *. *

As wonderfully friendly and generally safe as Prague was, it was not without its problems. The Romany people — commonly referred to as Gypsies — live in many parts of Europe, and were considered a huge problem in Prague at that time. Sadly, they were blamed for every crime that occurred anywhere in the city, whether they were guilty or not. One day, Rudy had picked me up at my apartment, and as we drove down the hill and around the corner, I noticed a man lying on the ground near the rear of a parked car, and saw blood on the ground near his head. I shouted at Rudy to stop, but instead he merely slowed down, took one look at the man, and kept going, saying it was not safe to stop. That was not like Rudy at all, and I kept asking him what was wrong with him. His answer shocked me. He said the man was a Gypsy, and if he was alive, regained consciousness and became frightened, he could very easily pull a knife and kill us both.

Now, I’m a city girl, and I’m no stranger to the dangers posed by all sorts of unsavory people. But I’ve also seen the results of hatred and bigotry, and I just could not allow a man to lie there and possibly die simply because we were afraid. So I told Rudy to find the nearest police or fire station. As luck would have it, just up the street we encountered a police car with two officers, stopped them, and led them back to the injured man, who was by then sitting up and holding the back of his head. The officers took charge, and we were able to go on our way. Sadly, that too was Prague. It’s the one truly negative memory I have of that summer, and it will never go away.

But, as with any ethnic group, there are Gypsies . . . and there are Gypsies.

Of all of the wonderful restaurants in Prague that year, my favorite was located outside the city center in a big, rustic log cabin set back from the road in a thinly wooded area. I never would have found it on my own, but my co-workers seemed to know every eating spot in town. The dining room was huge and beautifully rustic, and in the center was an enormous open fire pit with a dozen or more chickens turning continuously on a long spit. And there was entertainment: a group of Gypsy musicians, who — along with the owners of the restaurant — were delighted to meet the friendly American woman who spoke to them in Russian. As a result, I was always given the best table near the rotisserie, and serenaded to the soulful strains of Gypsy violins whenever I visited. (And yes, you can get sick and tired of hearing Zigeunerweisen.) Of course, as an American, I was by Eastern European standards a good tipper, so those guys weren’t stupid. But I had grown very fond of them, and hated saying goodbye to them at the end of the summer. If they went out and committed crimes after work, I never knew about it, and didn’t want to know. They were my Gypsies.

*. *. *

Then there was U Fleku — a brewpub that had been in continuous operation since the year 1499, even through the much more recent Nazi and Communist occupations. My friends Joe and Mary Saba — you may remember them from the London episode — came to Prague to work for a couple of weeks, during which time Joe had a big birthday to celebrate. So we —about a half dozen of us — took him to U Fleku and surprised him with a birthday cake. However, the only candles we had been able to find were the size of Chanukah candles, and when they were all lit, we were sure the blaze was going to burn down the 500-year-old wooden building. But it didn’t. And as we sang “Happy Birthday,” we were surprised and delighted to hear everyone in the room join in, singing in Czech. We had clearly chosen the perfect place for Joe’s birthday party — even though I still didn’t like beer.

Oh, and about that cake. I had stopped that morning at my favorite bakery to order it. It was to be freshly baked and ready for pick-up that afternoon. I couldn’t decide which of several flavors to choose, so I said — or thought I said — “either that one or that one,” pointing to two of the samples. The cost was an incredible $7.00, which would have been the price of just a couple of slices back home. But when Rudy went to pick up the cake in the afternoon, he returned to the office with, not one, but both cakes, and for the same $7.00 — an unbelievable $3.50 apiece! I guess I must have gotten my conjunctions mixed up; clearly, I didn’t know my “or” from my “and.” The second cake did not go to waste, though — my Czech friends knew how to eat as well as drink. I could never quite understand how they stayed so slender; must have been all the walking.

*. *. *

One more restaurant story. Well, actually a priest story. Or both. Anyway, I received a call one day from Michael Silverman in the Washington office (also from my London and Budapest adventures), telling me that a client and friend from Rutgers University, Dan Matuszewski, was coming to Prague and would be calling me to touch base. Dan was a delightful guy, and I was looking forward to hearing from him. When he called a few days later, to my surprise and delight he invited me to join him for dinner, and said that there would be a third person with us: Father Theodore Hesburgh, then President of Notre Dame University. I had heard of but never met “Father Ted,” as he was affectionately called, and was honored to have the opportunity. However, not being Catholic, I wasn’t quite sure what to expect, and decided I had better be on my best behavior.

To begin with, I couldn’t find the restaurant. I had the name (the Beograd — Belgrade, in English), as well as the address, and I knew where the street was, just off of the lower end of the famous Wenceslas Square. But I couldn’t find a building with the right street number, nor was there a visible sign with the name of the restaurant. So I approached a man walking by, who didn’t speak English, and asked him for the “Restaurace Beograd” — the Czech words for Belgrade Restaurant. Again, though, my pronunciation must have been less than perfect, because the poor man kept saying, “Ne Beograd. Praha. Praha.” (“Not Belgrade. Prague. Prague.”) He obviously thought I was suffering from some form of dementia and believed I was in Yugoslavia! As he walked away, shaking his head slowly from side to side in apparent sympathy, I was thinking about how to find a Czech language tutor, and soon. But first I had to find the restaurant.

I did locate it a few minutes later, with the help of another passerby, just around the corner from where I had been looking. It seemed that the street, which appeared to end at a cross street, actually made a 90-degree right turn and continued under the same name. Oh, well . . . that’s Prague.

When I finally arrived, Dan and Father Ted were already finishing their first round of drinks, and I soon discovered to my everlasting delight that Father Ted was one of the funniest, most interesting, and most down-to-earth priests one could imagine. I can’t think of a topic we didn’t cover during that dinner, most of it with a distinct overtone of irreverence and accompanied by a good bit of raucous laughter. I’m not sure how much any of us managed to eat that night, but it was a great time and one of my fondest memories of Prague. I do regret, though, that I never did make it to Yugoslavia.

*. *. *

My very first chapter of this blog began with the sentence, “I once climbed a mountain in Czechoslovakia.” I did not lie, although “mountain” may have been a slight exaggeration. It sure felt like a mountain, though. Google Maps tells me that the tallest mountain in the Czech Republic is Snezka, at 1,603.3 meters, or 5,260 feet — just twenty feet short of a mile high. On the other hand, my mountain, Hluboka, is described as “a hill.” But from personal experience, I can tell you that even the hills of San Francisco can’t hold a candle to the one leading up to Hluboka Castle. To me, it was a mountain. And you can’t drive right up to the castle, whether by car or tour bus; parking is at the bottom, and then you walk. Straight up. It probably only took about 10-15 minutes, but it felt like hours. All of my walking around Prague had not prepared my body for that experience, and my legs were sore for a week (a good excuse for more of that marvelous, medicinal Becherovka!). But the magnificent castle at the top was well worth the trek. And that was just one part of a lovely weekend spent at Jana’s parents’ home in the nearby town of Pisek.

Before I go on with that weekend, let me tell you about all of those Janas I keep mentioning. In order of seniority, they were: Jana Pilatova (the one from Pisek and the smartest), Jana Stefakova (the hottie with the equally hot boyfriend), and Jana Jungmannova (the youngest, prettiest, and sweetest). If you noticed the “ova” ending on all their family names, that’s the feminine designation. The Czechs — in 1991, at least — had no problem with the centuries-old system of gender-specific identification.

So Jana P. had invited me to meet her family and get out of the city for a couple of days. It was about a two-hour bus ride through the beautiful countryside of Bohemia. Her parents had a very nice, comfortable, older home on a substantial piece of land with a huge vegetable garden in the rear. Her father was a farmer who worked for a large produce grower, and everything they ate was freshly picked or killed, skillfully prepared, and incredibly delicious. But they couldn’t understand why I had such a small appetite — which, I promise you, was not the case at all. They could not have been more hospitable, and I found them to be well-educated and politically well-informed, as was their daughter Jana. The dinner conversation was lively, mostly about their joy at finally being rid of the [expletive deleted] Russians. It is a truism that you don’t really get to know a country until you have spent time with the “ordinary” people, away from the tourist areas; and I felt privileged to have had that opportunity.

*. *. *

But all good things must come to an end. I was scheduled to return home during the last week of August, having already extended my stay for a couple of weeks at the firm’s request. As much as I loved being there, it was the longest I had ever been away from home, and I was feeling a bit homesick. I had a tape of Simon & Garfunkel’s concert in Central Park, and kept playing “Homeward Bound,” over and over and over again. So when I was asked to extend once more until after Labor Day, some little voice in the back of my head told me I had to decline. When I announced to the gang from the office that I was going, they planned a farewell barbecue at Rudy’s house, and I felt as though I had truly found a second family — a diverse and somewhat quirky family — in Prague, and it was not easy to leave them. But that voice kept telling me to get on home, and so I left as scheduled, with my six pieces of overweight luggage, some beautiful Czech crystal, the strains of Mozart and Gypsy melodies lingering in my mind and heart, and a wealth of incredible memories.

*. *. *

A week or so later, just before Labor Day, my mother became ill and entered the hospital. She passed away on September 18th, of congestive heart failure. I had come home just in time. Always, always listen to that little voice.

But even in the aftermath of a tragedy, good things can happen. The loss of someone close to you can bring with it the realization of how precarious life really is, and how important it is to make the most of the time we’re allotted. And as I prepared to do exactly that, it became more and more clear that, for me, all roads did indeed lead to Russia.

Signing off until next time,
Brendochka
3/2/23 (re-posted 11/22/23)